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A Case Study: The T-Shirt

The T-Shirt on Screen and Stage

By Simran Hans

It was October 1995, and in Burbank, California, it was t-shirt weather. The actress Gwyneth Paltrow was attending a movie premiere with her boyfriend, a fellow Hollywood star. As she stepped out of the car and onto the red carpet, onlookers were likely shocked. The 23 year old was not wrapped in a designer gown or an expensive two piece suit; there was no statement handbag dangling from her wrist. Paltrow was dressed in a black leather jacket, blue jeans and a plain, perfectly fitted white t-shirt. The famous boyfriend, by the way, was wearing a white t-shirt too.

"Paltrow was dressed in a black leather jacket, blue jeans and a plain, perfectly fitted white t-shirt. [...]The outfit is audacious in its simplicity, daring in its insistence on ease."

The outfit is audacious in its simplicity, daring in its insistence on ease. You can look at the t-shirt and believe that perhaps she just slung it on. On Paltrow, casualness suggests confidence. Somehow, on her, the t-shirt is laid back without ever reading as sloppy. A white t-shirt is the opposite of overthinking it, and so that year Paltrow leaned on hers for several red carpet occasions. She wore it with a long, gunmetal grey skirt; with black velvet trousers and a luxurious matching blazer. As the weather turned colder, she layered a white t-shirt underneath a pearlescent Calvin Klein coat and playfully paired it with sneakers. A white t-shirt is a blank canvas that can, of course, be dressed up, but there’s a power in using it to dress down.

In Hollywood, the white t-shirt has always had star power. In the 1950s, male movie stars were starting to shrug off their starched dress shirts in favour of the hipper and more comfortable t-shirt. With that ease of physical movement came the ability to shake off social restrictions, too. In 1955, James Dean’s troubled teenager Jim Stark transformed the t-shirt into a symbol of youthful revolt. The same year saw Sidney Poitier wearing a white crew neck t-shirt in his breakout film, Blackboard Jungle. A melodrama about delinquent students set in an interracial school, it starred Poitier as a sharp and musically gifted high schooler. Authority figures remained buttoned up. Rebels, on the other hand, wore t-shirts.

There are many ways to wear a white t-shirt, but in Grease, John Travolta wore his with swagger. Set in 1958 but released on the cusp of the 80s, Travolta’s bad boy Danny Zuko seduces Olivia Newton-John’s Sandy in a snug white t-shirt. It’s the official dress code of the T-Birds, his gang of rock ‘n’ roll greasers. A few years later, in 1986, Tom Cruise wore his fitted, pristine white t-shirt with aviator sunglasses, as a renegade pilot in Top Gun. An unfussy, practical white t-shirt made sense as an action hero’s costume; it had become an avatar of slick, all-American cool. It’s worth noting that Bruce Willis doesn’t spend all of Die Hard in a vest – he also wears a t-shirt – and in Speed, Keanu Reeves wears one too.

"The classic white t-shirt hides nothing. [...] Its lack of adornment only emphasises the charisma of the wearer. It invites projection, and encourages fantasy. It asks: what if I was the protagonist of my own life?"

Simran Hans

Simran is a writer and broadcaster who writes about culture - films, TV, music, books, art, fashion, food and the internet - through criticism, essays, profiles and reported features. She was the film critic for The Observer from 2017 to 2022, and her work has appeared in The Guardian, New Statesman, Dazed, Sight & Sound, among many others.

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