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A Case Study

The T-Shirt / Deconstruction

In the spring of 2015 the Asket T-Shirt was made available for pre-order and first deliveries were shipped the same summer. Since then over 330.000 Asket T-Shirts have been made. What started as a humble attempt to derive the greatest version of the world's most ubiquitous wardrobe essential, has become an unending strive for the near-impossible: consistency.

Chapter 1: IntroductionChapter 3: Essays

At Asket, we reduce garments to their essence: what adds value, and what does not. In late 2014 we started to dissect classic and contemporary t-shirts, to develop our version of the world's most iconic staple. In the end, it all came down to three things: fabric, fit, and freedom from unnecessary details.

Inspired by mid-20th century t-shirts, we developed a mid-weight 100% long-staple cotton jersey. The smooth, compact 180gsm fabric resists pilling, twisting, and creasing, while offering durability, drape, and carefree handling.

We aimed at a timeless balance for the fit — straight-cut with subtle shaping, a conservative neckline, and sleeves cut to mid-bicep at a clean right angle. We obsessed over these proportions, refining them sample by sample until the silhouette felt effortless.

Finally, we worked on the details: a high-density twin-needle stitch for all hems, and a rib-knitted bound collar—both aesthetic and functional, adding strength to the most delicate part of the t-shirt while subtly elevating its frame.

We felt squeezed in by the standard sizing (XS-XL) offered by most other brands. Often modelled on a given, ideal body type size M, garments are more or less linearly scaled up and down to achieve a size range. What this universally accepted system consciously lacks is the recognition that people come in different shapes.

Holding our idea of ideal garment proportions constant, all that was missing to offer the same fit to more people, was an additional dimension: a length option. So we decided to add just that. Three lengths, to every standard size.  Between the short, regular and long options we adjust the body length by 3cm and the sleeve length by 1,5cm.

Our 18-size system separates width (XS–XXL) from length (Short, Regular, Long).

More than allowing people of different frame to find the same fit, our size system allows you to find your individual look. Liberating individual choice from the boundaries of standard sizing, there are no constraints. Fit is no longer about size, but about preference and proportion. 

One garment, different expressions. Nicolas in XS Long, M Long, and XXL Long

Behind the unassuming surface of the Asket T-Shirt is a complex process, attempting to deliver the impossible: total consistency, manufacturing run after manufacturing run.

Climate shifts at farming level alter fibre properties; dye recipes need to be recalibrated, fabric rolls individually tested for shrinkage. For a decade now, we’ve used the same (singular) 55-year-old circular knitting machine to make the fabric for every single batch of The T-Shirt - 49 productions, over 330.000 units, and counting. Consistency – as far as it goes – is not automated, it is earned. We know we are only as good as the last T-Shirt we made.

1. Cotton cultivation, farming and ginning

Multiple regions, Turkey

2. Cotton combing and spinning

Şirikçioğlu İplik ve Denim İşletmeleri A.Ş., Turkey

3. Jersey fabric knitting

Cruzamil - Tecelagem Lda, Portugal

4. Piece-dying and fabric finishing

Barceltinge Tinturaria Lda, Portugal

5. Shrinkage testing of each fabric roll

Cottonparadise Lda, Portugal

6. Pattern adjustment for each fabric roll

Cottonparadise Lda, Portugal

7. Fabric relaxation before cutting

Cottonparadise Lda, Portugal

8. Cutting planning and cutting of fabrics

Cottonparadise Lda, Portugal

9. Sewing of The T-Shirt

José, Adélio & Ofelia - Indústria de confecções Lda, Portugal

10. Washing and preshrinking

José, Adélio & Ofelia - Indústria de confecções Lda, Portugal

11. Trimming, pressing and packing

Cottonparadise LDA, Portugal

The T-Shirt is the embodiment of our promise of permanent design, obsessively refined. Working with a permanent assortment allows us to spend more time developing each item before introducing it, and then revisit and improve the same garment over time. Colors are refined, stitching improved, fabrics evaluated, fits examined. Sometimes a garment goes on for years without change. Sometimes changes are more frequent. They can be subtle, unnoticeable to the untrained eye, or more significant. Every alteration is logged and evaluated. We continuously collect feedback and use the data to monitor garment satisfaction over time and cross reference it with changes made. 

1.0 2015-08

Release

1.1 2015-10

Fit updates: neckline: -1,5cm / shoulder: +1,5cm / waist +1,0cm

1.1 2015-10

Improved garment wash, to minimise shrinkage

1.1 2017

Updated to optical black from matte black, navy to dark navy

1.1 2018

Updated dusty green to a darker shade

1.2 2022-08

Updated from conventional to organic cotton

1.3 2026-03

(Planned) removal of waist curve, straight fit from armpit down

The Asket T-Shirt is a custom-developed midweight (180gsm) organic cotton jersey: soft yet substantial, pre-shrunk and compacted to resist twisting, warping and shrinking. The fit is tailored and straight cut: a bound, rib-knitted crew neckline that keeps its shape for hundreds of washes, sleeves that fall at a perfect angle, and a body that ends halfway down the fly.

It is designed to be an enduring staple — the permanent version of the world’s most essential garment.

The T-Shirt

75AUD

+5

White

Next Chapter: Reflections by guest writers